Lotus in the West Lake, Photo: Nguyễn Kim Dzung

The traditional occupation of making lotus tea by the Quảng An people in Tây Hồ District, Hà Nội and the Elegant Enjoyment of Lotus Tea by the Hanoians

Lotus flowers (scientific name is nelumbo nucifera) are found in various regions around the world including Vietnam. In this beautiful country, they grow naturally and are cultivated in various regions from the North to the South. With their elegant beauty, fragrant scent, and many other special qualities, lotus flowers have been extremely loved by the Vietnamese people and they were thus woven into folk verses since ancient times and have become an endless source of inspiration for poetry, music, painting, and sculpture in Vietnamese culture. While simple lotus patterns can commonly be featured on daily utensils and products, or in details of civil architecture, complex lotus images have also been expressed very delicately on altars, stone steles, Buddhist or Christian altars that date back hundreds of years, becoming a symbol of happiness, purity and nobility.

In terms of usage value, it can be said that very few plant species have all their components - roots, stems, leaves, flowers, stamens, seeds - used beneficially for humans like the lotus plant. For instance, the roots or stems and seeds are used in food preparation, both delicious and valuable as refreshing medicinal ingredients; the dried lotus hearts, stamens, and leaves are used as tea to treat insomnia, reduce blood fat and calm the nerves; the lotus stalks provide thin yet strong fibers for weaving silk; the lotus leaves have a gentle, refreshing fragrance and are used for wrapping food, especially for wrapping young rice "cốm" from the Vòng Village, another culinary specialty of Hà Nội; the lotus flowers are used for decoration, both beautiful and fragrant, bringing a pleasant and relaxing feeling; the petals and stamens (the white anthers, which look like rice grain and thus are called in Vietnamese “gạo sen”) are used for flavoring tea, creating a special lotus-flavored tea that tea lovers can not miss. In the scope of this article, I would like to introduce in more details the famous occupation of making lotus tea by the people in Quảng An village, now a ward in Tây Hồ district, and the elegant tea enjoyment of the Hanoians.

Situated more than 6 kilometers northwest of capital city’s center, West Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake in Hà Nội covering an area of 5.3 square kilometers. This place has a cool and refreshing atmosphere, beautiful natural scenery with numerous valuable historical and cultural relics designated by the state and serves as a repository of age-old cultural traditions including the valuable lotus tea making profession of Quảng An people. In the past, Quảng An ward used to have over a dozen ponds and lakes with a layer of Red River alluvium ranging from 0.7 to 1.2 meters thick, accumulated over millennia, providing an excellent environment for the growth of lotus plants. Thanks to this, the West Lake lotus is a special species, with buds as large as two hands placed together, each blossom consisting of numerous double petals layered upon each other, enveloping the stamens, pistils, and lotus grains, preserving the fragrant aroma of lotus flowers from escaping. This precious lotus species is locally known as "sen bách diệp" (pink lotus with hundreds of petals). Through diligence, creativity in cultivation and exploitation, for generations, the people of Quảng An have known how to use West Lake lotus to scent the tea, creating unique, unparalleled lotus-flavoured tea products, renowned far and wide.

Interview with artisan Ngô Thị Thân - a lotus tea maker.

Photo: Nguyễn Kim Dzung. 2024

West Lake Lotus flowers are used for decoration and for scenting tea.

Photo: Nguyễn Kim Dzung.

To gain a better understanding of the current status of the lotus tea making profession in Quảng An ward, Tây Hồ district, Hà Nội, I visited the family of artisan Nguyễn Thị Dần (who is turning 100 years old this year), one of the few exemplary families with four or five generations of lotus tea makers in the district. Unfortunately, Mrs. Dần was feeling a bit tired on that day. Instead, I was greeted by her daughter, Ngô Thị Thân (68 years old), who has taken over the traditional job of Mrs. Dần’s. Thân proudly recounted her mother's story: "Dần learned very fast the tea craft from her mother, who is my grandmother, known as Thìn since she was a child. Even at 100 years old now, Dần continues to make lotus tea with care, enthusiastically answering clearly various questions from customers and journalists who seek to understand this traditional craft."

Mrs. Thân is the second daughter, with an elder brother and a younger brother. However, only Mrs. Thân together with her two children and grandchildren are currently pursuing the family's traditional craft. Despite a childhood of assisting her mother and grandmother in the art of processing lotus tea, as she grew older, Mrs. Thân developed a liking for the art of flower arrangement and selling flowers at Đồng Xuân market, the largest and most famous market in Hà Nội, rather Thân continuing the lotus tea business. But her mother kept encouraging her, diligently providing guidance on every step and secrets of the craft and eventually, out of love and respect for her hardworking mother, she accepted.

She mentioned that perhaps this profession was her own choice, and since switching careers, her temperament has also changed - no longer rash or negligent, as this craft demands patience, composure, and dedication to master it. Having knowledge about various types of lotus, Mrs. Thân is very proud that the pink lotus flowers from West Lake are of the best quality, featuring large flowers, bright colors, and exquisite scents. This type of lotus requires a more meticulous care regime, with a thick layer of silt-rich mud for optimal growth. According to her, since the feudal era, Trị pond at West Lake, one of over a dozen lotus ponds in the old village of Quảng An, was known to be the best land for growing lotus plants. The lotus flowers always bloomed beautifully here, so the pond was chosen as a specialized place for cultivating lotus flowers to be used in making tea offerings to the King's court and the Lord's palace.

“Hàm tiếu” lotus flowers of West Lake. Photo: CCH

Artisans eperating lotus petals and grains. Photo: CCH

There are two main types of products: dried lotus tea and tea scented in lotus buds. To produce both of these types, the first step is to prepare the ingredients which include dried tea leaves and lotus buds.

In the past, people used tea from Hà Giang province but the infused tea was slightly red in color and had weak taste. Therefore, since the 1990s, people in Quảng An have switched to using tea from La Bằng and Tân Cương communes in Thái Nguyên province. These types of tea also have large leaves and are good at absorbing lotus fragrance, with beautiful greeny or yellowish colors like the color of honey. In the case of Mrs. Dần's household, they are accustomed to using tender tea shoots from Thái Nguyên and rare San Tuyết tea (from ancient tea trees) only found in Tuyên Quang province. However, San Tuyết tea has thicker leaves, making it harder to absorb the fragrance, so more lotus buds are needed for embalmment, and it is significantly more expensive (market price ranging from about five hundreds to six hundreds US dollars per kilogram).

Thái Nguyên tea. Photo: CCH.

San Tuyết tea from Tuyên Quang province. Photo: Nguyễn Kim Dzung.

Regarding the lotus collection job, after Mrs. Thân, lotus flowers should be harvested in very early morning, when the entire pond is still covered with dew, and the lotus flowers are still in buds, not bloomed yet, resembling the mouths of somones playing flutes, locally known as "hàm tiếu" flowers, because if collected later, by the time the lotus blossoms are already large, the fragrance would loose.

Moistening the tea. Photo: CCH

Sieving to collect lotus grains. Photo: CCH

Scenting the tea with lotus grains. Photo: CCH

After all the ingredients are ready, the process of scenting tea is carried out sequentially through the following steps: The first is to “wash” the tea (rửa trà). This actually is to mix dried tea with small lotus petals, alternately layer by layer to moisten the tea, making it easier to absorb the lotus fragrance. The second step is to separate lotus petals and grains (the small white grains of lotus anthers). This requires skill, dexterity and speed to avoid crushing the lotus grains while preserving their fragrance. After seperation, the gains need to be sieved once again to remove any remaining impurities, stamens or petals.

Next is the main task of scenting the tea. This time-consuming process is conducted immediately after the grains are ready. A special type of wax paper bag is appllied to prevent the fragrance of lotus and tea from escaping. Layers of tea and lotus grains are alternately placed until all the two ingredients, grains and tea are used up, then the bag is sealed, leaving the tea to asorb wonderful lotus scent for 2-3 days. To have one kilogram lotus tea of best quality, it must undergo 6 or 7 times of embalmment, each time consuming around 200 grams of lotus grains.

This means there must be totally 1,200 up to 1,500 lotus buds, taking 2 to 3 weeks to complete a tea batch. During the process, after each scenting session, the tea needs to be dried immediately, using any of the three following traditional drying methods that have been applied from ancient times to the present: drying with a charcoal stove, with an electric stove, or with hot water (bain-marie), and usually in a closed room to preserve the aroma. According to Mrs. Thân, tea drying step is also a quite challenging process, requiring the tea makers to have extensive experience in order to control the heat so that the tea can dry without burning.

Finally come the packaging and storing dried lotus tea. Due to its quick moisture absorption and volatile scent, the tea, after its final drying and cooling phase, needs to be packed as quickly as possible. The best type of bag for packaging the tea that the people of Quảng An prefer is a wax-paper bag because it can prevent moisture and retain the fragrance. They also wrap an additional layer of silver glossy paper bag to ensure that the tea is completely packed. All of the above techniques and skills demonstrate the sophistication involved in the traditional craft and explain why the value of a kilogram of lotus-scented tea is so much higher than that of all other types of scented teas.

The second type of lotus tea product of the Quảng An people is the tea scented inside lotus buds (“trà búp sen” in Vietnamese). Although the process of this type is much simpler compared to the dry lotus tea, but it also requires certain skills and experiences. Specifically, in addition to the same techniques of raw tea selection and lotus flowers collection as mentioned above, when processing this type of product, the artisans will use the dry tea that had been once scented with lotus grains, skillfully open the petals of each lotus flower, then place inside a predetermined amount of 15 grams of tea. Afterwards, they tie the lotus bud again with a softened water-soaked bamboo string. To avoid the escape of lotus fragrance, the people of Quảng An also wrap an additional layer of lotus leaves around the lotus bud.

Wrapping additional layer of lotus leaves. Photo: CCH

Tea scented inside Lotus buds. Photo: CCH

Quảng An Lotus tea product. Photo: CCH

Today, in addition to the two main products of dried lotus tea and tea scented inside lotus buds, Mr. Dần's family has also developed several side products such as dried lotus seed hearts, grains, and seeds, etc., which are used for brewing tea to help with relaxation and well sleep.

A set of tea pot and lotus tea products of Dần’s household.

Photo: Nguyễn Kim Dzung.

The elegant enjoyment of lotus tea by the Hanoians

For the Vietnamese tea drinkers, especially those in Hà Nội known for their elegance and refinement, tea appreciation has long become one of the sophisticated pleasures, elevating it to an art form, reflected through meticulousness in every utensil and brewing gesture as well as tea appreciation. To have a delicious cup of tea, first of all, you must have water as pure as rainwater collected from the sky, boiled in an earthen kettle to ensure there are no impurities that could affect the flavor of the tea. According to tradition, the water used to brew tea for the kings and nobles had to be early morning dew carefully collected from fresh lotus leaves. In addition, each type of tea requires hot water at a different temperature. For scented teas such as lotus tea, chrysanthemum or jasmine tea, etc., the water should be brought to a boil and then allowed to cool to 90 - 95 degrees Celsius before pouring into the tea because at this temperature, tea is easy to extract flavor and aroma without becoming bitter and astringent as when brewed at a higher temperature. In the art of tea brewing, beside choosing the right teapot and teacups for each drinking style: solitary (one drinker), paired (two drinkers), or group, experienced individuals always rinse the teapot with boiling water first to warm it up before adding the tea. Next, pour hot water (90-95 degrees Celsius) into the teapot, cover it tightly, and then pour another round of hot water over the teapot to increase its temperature. After 1-2 minutes, tea is ready for serving. Every step must be carried out carefully by the tea maker, with both heart and emotion, in order to create delicious and flavorful cups of tea.

The art of enjoying fine tea also has its own tips, engaging multiple senses including vision, olfaction, and taste. Firstly, those who appreciate tea will assess the quality of the tea by observing its liquid’s density and color, then lift the tea cup close to their nose, inhaling the distinctive and refreshing scent of lotus flowers. They will then slowly lower the cup to their lips, taking a small sip to experience the harmonious combination of bitterness and sweetness characteristic of the tea. An appropriate moment like the harmonious dawn, a serene, comfortable mood, an open and peaceful space close to nature, and close friends who share the same interests of enjoying tea, etc. These are also important factors that elevate the significance and quality of the Hanoians’ unique tea culture.

Enjoying lotus tea at West Lake, Photo: Nguyễn Kim Dzung.

The challenges and some solutions towards the sustainable development for Quảng An lotus tea craft

Mrs. Thân told in a melancholic tone that urbanization and environmental pollution, as well as the depletion of land and water resources have been affecting the growth and development of lotus plants, leading to the shrinkage of many lotus ponds. To address this issue, the people of Quảng An have brought West Lake lotus seeds to neighboring areas for cultivation, although the quality of these lotus plants cannot compare to those from West Lake.

The number of people working in the traditional occupation of scenting tea in general, and specifically in making lotus scented tea, is gradually declining because many older experienced practitioners are gradully getting weak, passing away, or becoming too old to work. The younger generation is not interested in this traditional craft as it requires meticulousness, craftsmanship, dedication, and time while yielding low productivity. Moreover, modern tastes and lifestyles have evolved, especially among the younger population. They prefer a fast-paced lifestyle and have hundreds of career options and industrially made beverages to choose from, not just tea. Therefore, there are not many families remain practicing the traditional craft today, and most of them now focus on producing the product of tea scented in lotus flower instead of traditional dried lotus tea because of its simple technique, higher productivity, and higher profits. Although the Quảng An ward’s traditional tea processing craft has never been interrupted during its long history and the social demand for scented tea still remains, but in today's context, the challenge of how to involve the younger generation in maintaining and developing the tradition remains a difficult issue, demanding efforts from each practicing family as well as from the community of artisans and the support policies from the government at both the national and local levels.

In order to support and promote the traditional craft of scenting tea in Quảng An, the trademark "Quảng An Lotus Tea, the essence of Vietnamese tea" was certified by the Ministry of Science and Technology (2012). Then, the traditional craft was registered in the the Hà Nội’s List of the intangible cultural heritage in need of safguarding by the Hà Nội Department of Culture and Sports (2015). And, pursuant to the Program 02-CTr/QU of Tây Hồ District People's Committee for "Enhancing state management of the economy; focusing on developing the tourism industry linked to historical and cultural relics, landscapes, and traditional craft villages of the district," various projects to promote lotus cultivation in ponds and lakes in the district have been conducted since 2020[1]. As a result, recently from early May to late July or early August each year, ponds and lakes in Quảng An and Nhật Tân wards in Tây Hồ district become lush green, blooming, fragrant with lotus flowers, partially meeting the demand for raw materials for Quảng An traditional lotus tea craft, while also attracting many visitors for sightseeing, taking photos, and enjoying the fresh and gentle air brought by the beautiful Tây Hồ lotus flowers.

Recently, the people of Hà nội in general and the community of lotus tea makers in Quang An in particular are very happy and excited when the profession of lotus tea making in Quang An, Tây Hồ District, along with Phở of Hà Nội and 15 other intangible cultural heritages items across the country, have been registered in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (Decision No. 2316/QD-BVHTTDL) to honor and encourage the concerned communities and the whole society as well to join hands in preserving them.

When asked about her future intentions, Mrs. Thân expressed her desire for the traditional profession of lotus tea making of her family in particular and of the Quảng An practicing communities in general, not only to be preserved but also further developed. She is currently encouraging her children and grandchildren to concentrate in the family’s tradition, determined to reclaim the area of their rented house to expand production. And in the future, she wants to establish a larger-scale production model like a cooperative to develop her family’s lotus tea brand.

Wishing the aspirations of the family of Mrs. Nguyễn Thị Dần and her daughter, Mrs. Ngô Thi Thân, to soon become a reality.

Contributed By Nguyễn Kim Dzung, International Reporter of Arirang Culture Connect.

* The information and data in this section and some other information and photos in the article are extracted from the profile provided by the Center for Research and Promotion of Intangible Cultural Heritage (CCH).